Every day on the south slope of the central Nepali Himalaya, the morning was clear, then it would cloud over in the afternoon. And every day we would gain a little more altitude. One mist-shrouded afternoon, we arrived at an unremarkable village on a ridge, and settled in to our camp on the edge of town. We awoke the next morning to thisour first spellbinding, crystal-clear vision of the Great Himalaya.
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